How to Properly Plant Tomatoes

Tomatoes love heat, so find a well drained area in full sun (at least 8 hours per day) with organically rich soil (pH 6.0 to 7.0). Tomatoes are heavy feeders and need an appropriate balance of N-P-K (nitrogen-phosphorous-potassium). However, don't overdo the nitrogen for this can lead to vigorous plant growth with lots of foliage, but few tomatoes. On the other hand, yellowing leaves are indicative of too little nitogen. A lack of phosphorous presents itself by foliage which takes on a purplish cast and late flowering; a potassium deficiency delays growth and diminishes yields.

With planting there are pitfalls. Planting too early is the most common mistake. The best method for preventing this is to call your local county extension office and ask for the last expected frost date, and plant one week after that date. There is no need to rush in the garden, the larger, spindly seedlings are quickly caught or outdone by smaller, younger plants. (Also, if you purchase transplants, look for stocky, dark green plants with no yellow flowers). When your planting day arrives, nighttime temperature should stay above 50 degrees F. Dig a bowling ball sized hole for each plant. Add a shovelful of compost and a tablespoonful of epsom salt (calcium) in each hole, and plants seedlings deeply, at least up to the first set of branches, to promote a strong root system.

If you plan to start your own seed instead of purchasing transplants, plant seeds 1/4 inch deep in flats containing cells. Plant two seeds in each cell - filled with potting soil. Keep temperature about 75 degrees F, and seeds will germinate in approximately 1 week. Be sure flats are in full sun. After seedlings have their first leaves, remove the weaker of the two. To promote early fruiting, keep the daytime temperature at 65 degrees F, and nightime at 55 degrees F. Fertilize weekly using a diluted 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer. As the seedlings grow, transplant them into larger and larger containers. Every time you repot, plant seedlings deeper than they were in their previous pot. This encourages new root growth along the stem.

Whether you transplant your own seedlings or store bought transplants your soil should be healthy and rich with organic matter. However, to ensure large yields, side-dress your plants with 2 tablespoonfuls of a slow release granular 10-10-10 fertilizer two weeks after transplanting, after the first flowers appear, when the fruits are golf ball sized, and after the first ripe tomato.

Michael McAfee
http://yourtomatogarden.com/

Visit my website at the above link to learn four generations of my family's homegrown tomato secrets.
Your Tomato Garden, Tomato Garden

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What Everyone Ought to Know About Breeding Earthworms For Gardening Use

Remember in the day when you used earthworms to scare your sister and other girls from the neighborhood? Hopefully you no longer scare the neighborhood women and realize the value worms are to your garden and environment. There are two types of earthworms, both are great for worm composting. In a moment we will take a closer look at both varieties.

Setting up a worm bin-the right way:

Many worm farmers believe wood is the best material to use for a worm bin. The container, which will hold the worms, can be made from an old dresser draw or chest your planed on throwing away. Or, if you have basic carpentry skills, you can build one out of a few sheets of plywood.

Drill holes in the bottom of the bin for drainage and air circulation. More holes should be made near the top part of the bin. A 1/8 of an inch drill bit is the ideal size for adding circulation hole. This allows air to flow through the worm bin, while keeping the earthworms from escaping.

Worm bin bedding material:

Worms need bedding and damp conditions to survive, grow, and multiply. They breathe through their skin and dry conditions will leave them dead as a doornail in a heartbeat. Shredded newspaper, straw, peat moss, corrugated cardboard, horse manure and decaying leaves are good bedding materials.

A handful of sand or dirt will aid the earthworms in digestion. Don't go overboard with the dirt. Why? Because some types worms live in the earth, while others, "composting worms" live in piles of rotting manure and food waste. After you add the bedding material wet it down so when squeezed a few drops of water is produced.

The two types of earthworms used are either the red worm (EiseniaFoetida) or red earthworm (Lumbricus Rubellus). The number worms you start with will depend on the volume of waste you expect to put in the bin.

A general guideline is for every 1,000 worms, add a half-pound of kitchen waste a week. As the red worm population grows so will the food you'll have to feed them. These worms have big appetites and you'll be blown away at the amount of waste they go through.

What to feed the earthworms:

There is a wide variety of foods you can feed the worms and some should you avoid. Watermelons, banana, tomatoes, coffee grounds, lettuce, strawberries, spinach, cooked eggshells, and eggplant to name a few can be added to the bin.

Do not add meat, animal fat or grains because they attract unwanted critters. Here's a little trick to keep insects from becoming a pain in the neck. Dig a hole, add the scrap and cover it with the material from inside the bin. This keeps bugs and other critters down to a minimum.

Using earthworm castings is a way of making your soil richer and more productive. It can be included at the base of outdoor crops or mixed into the soil used for houseplants. The result is stronger, healthier plants and crops without dangerous chemical residues.

Steve Habib is an active gardener and researcher on the subject of growing and caring for a variety of plants. To receive our FREE BOOK "How Do Plants Grow" visit the HOME PAGE To learn more about EARTHWORMS visit here.

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Reducing Landfill is Super Easy - If We All Do a Little, It Will Help a Lot!

There are so many ways you can do your bit to help reduce landfill. Living on acreage I'm fortunate enough to have many options to dispose of veggie and other food scraps. We have a dog, cats, chickens and a compost bin.

The chickens get first choice of fresh scraps - the dog and cats get the cooked food scraps - the compost gets what I don't think is suitable for the chickens (seriously would you eat a raw onion if you were a chook!)

Not everyone has this luxury of course but there are still many ways you can do your part.

Some options are:

Composting: even if you only have an apartment you can buy a compost bucket for your kitchen. You can compost your scraps, tea and coffee grounds, eggshells, etc. You can even put meat and dairy in some of them (not the usual ingredients for a compost bin). If you have a backyard you can have your compost bin or a Worm Farm. Worms are great little eaters and provide excellent fertilizer. If you have a larger yard then you can have a compost bin or heap.

You can add compost into your veggie garden (preferably dig in a few weeks prior to planting) or you can use it as mulch for any part of your garden. Compost is not a fertilizer as such but it will improve your soil quality.

Chickens are great as they provide eggs and fertilizer in return for some chook food and fresh scraps (chook poo is great for the garden or compost, just don't add fresh manure of any sort directly to a veggie garden).

Recycle as much as possible. Milk containers, cans, jars, newspapers, etc. Every town has their own recycling system but it's worth finding out what you can do.

Shop smart, try not to buy products that are over packaged. Cook more from "real" ingredients rather than processed foods. You'll reduce packaging, save money and be healthier.

Find out more about composting at http://www.organic-veggie-patch.com/organic-gardening-compost.html.

There's more information and ideas for your Organic Vegetable Garden at http://www.organic-veggie-patch.com.

Happy Gardening!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Leah_Lovelock

Sowing the Seeds of Your Vegetable Garden

Garden seeds can be sown in a variety of ways. The most common is to plant in straight rows, but in more intensive planting, diamond shapes are often used.

There's no hard and fast rule about how deep seeds should be planted. The depth required will vary based on both the seed being sown, as well as the character and condition of the soil. In heavy clay and moist soils, the covering should be lighter than in sandy or dry soils. Regardless of the depth, planting should be uniform. Whether you're planting in boxes or beds, you can use the side of a small plank of wood to create a depression for the row in which to seed.

In a large garden, or small farm plot, you're looking to reduce the labor required as much as possible, and so long rows are much more suitable. By grouping the vegetables together according to their care requirements, you'll also reduce excess work needed to care for your garden. By doing this, you can tend each group of vegetables together as one plot.

Remember too that the more work you do in the fall, the less preparation you'll need to make in the spring before you can begin planting. If you're using manure as a fertilizer, plan to apply it in the fall, and turn it under the soil. That way, your garden ready for planting early season crops -- you only need wait until the soil is dry enough -- a process that is hastened with fall manure applications.

The actual planting of the garden is pretty simple, if you've taken the time to prepare a garden plan. No time is lost in deciding what vegetable to plant where. You can, instead, simply refer to the plan and get started. For most home-sized gardens, it is easiest to plant by hand.

The most common way is to use a dibber, or another hand tool, to create holes or depressions in the soil, into which the seeds are dropped. The seeds are then covered, and the soil firmed. It's important to make sure the soil is completely firmed, because most seeds will not germinate unless they are in contact with the soil.

While Johnny Cartwright enjoys numerous outdoor sports and recreation activities, he's always involved in new things. His latest website contains cordless drill reviews and information about power tool accessories like cordless drill batteries.

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3 Problems For Late Gardens to Overcome

A few years ago a neighbor welcomed our family into the neighborhood with a basket of juicy, mouth-watering sweet corn right at frost time. This put me to thinking of all the delicious eating I had missed by not growing late crops of vegetables. And when my neighbor followed up with tasty beets, beans that were a delight to snap, and crisp radishes. I could hardly wait until the next July to start planting.

Now, several seasons later, I am convinced that most gardeners miss some of their finest eating because they fail to make midsummer plantings.

You can grow excellent crops of the following vegetables for late eating:

beans, lettuce, sweet corn, beets, carrots, peas, cabbages, onions, radishes

If you have space and time, you can add broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, cucumbers, Chinese cabbage, endive, kale, and spinach.

There are some problems connected with late plantings, but you can, with experience, lick them.

One is that of getting seeds to germinate and start growing vigorously during the hot, dry summer months. Attack this problem by soaking the furrow thoroughly with water before planting. Then cover the seeds (a little deeper than in the spring) with dry soil. To go all out in your attack, tamp the covered seeds lightly with the hoe and then loosen the surface with the rake or your hands.

Some gardeners also put a light covering of something like sawdust or straw over the row, regulating the depth of the mulch according to size of the seeds. You can put a heavy layer of straw, leaves, or grass clippings along each side of the row as soon as it is planted, leaving the row itself uncovered except maybe for a thin layer of straw or clippings.

You may, especially in the case of carrots and onions, even have to soak the row a few times after it is planted, but if you start this phase of the watering, continue it regularly enough to keep the ground moist until the plants break through, else a hard crust may form.

Set out plants during cloudy weather if possible, but if you have to set during sunny weather, shade the plants with something-maybe a shingle stuck into the ground.

If you use the above suggestions for getting your late garden started, you will almost always succeed. Now your second problem begins that of keeping your garden growing rapidly during the usual warm, dry summers. High quality of crops like beets and carrots depends greatly upon rapid growth.

Mulching with leaves and so on while the plants are growing will help tremendously in counteracting drought. This plus occasional watering will assure good crops. If, however, you do not mulch or water you'll often raise much good food, for you'll usually get rain before the plants actually suffer.

A third problem the late gardener faces is that of timing his planting and selecting the varieties that grow best. This means, for instance, that you should usually select the quick maturing and vigorous kinds. You will soon learn from experience the earliest and latest practicable dates for planting.

You may, in some cases, want to try later dates, and you'll sometimes succeed with them. For instance, one year I pushed my "frost luck" to the extreme with sweet corn by planting on July 20. I gathered splendid ears from September, 30 to October 14, even though we had light, non-killing frosts on September 24 and 27. The two weeks of beautifully warm weather after the frosts saved the corn.

Two additional problems will confront you if you don't prepare ahead. When I first began planting late gardens, I would invariably run out of some kinds of seeds (used them in the spring) and find it difficult to buy a few. I learned to buy more than I needed for spring planting.

Then I would run out of insecticides. I soon learned to judge how much I needed for the entire season.

I believe that once you give late gardening a real try, you will discover a delightful hobby. Raising vegetables, planting and replanting flowers under adverse conditions is a challenge to one's skill. But with practice you can easily overcome the difficulties.

Then when the members of your family are seated around the table eating juicy sweet corn on the cob, enjoying brittle, tasty carrot sticks, and praising you for the tender snap beans, you'll start planning next year's fall crop.

In case you are unaware there is much more on the topic of replanting flowers. Beginners and experts alike refer to us as their source for information on plant-care.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Keith_Markensen

Get the Most Out of Your Fresh Flowers

When someone sends flowers to you, it is a very special way of showing they care. Here are a few helpful tips to help you care for the flowers that they have sent. This will ensure that your arrangement has every chance to last as long as possible, continuing to bring joy and beauty to your life.

Follow these practical steps to help prolong the life of your flowers:

1. For bouquets, make sure each stem is cut at an angle at least 2 or 3cm from the bottom when first receiving flowers.

2. Keep your flowers Hydrated! Always ensure you fill your vase with lukewarm water for cut flowers such as Gerberas, Lilies, Roses etc. However bulb flowers like Daffodils, Hyacinths and Tulips prefer cold water.

3. Always ensure that you place your flowers into a clean vase. This will help reduce the amount of bacteria that your flowers are exposed to, thus extending their life span.

4. Every 2 days ensure you refill the cleaned vase completely with fresh water rather than just topping it up. This is the single most effective way of making your flowers look fresh and vibrant.

5. Keep your flowers out of direct sunlight during the day and at night keep them in a nice cool spot. Keep flowers out of drafty areas.

6. A little known tip is to keep your flowers away from fruit, as fruit releases a gas that accelerates the aging process of flowers.

7. With boxed arrangements, the flowers are arranged in floral foam. This foam needs to remain damp to provide the flowers with water. Keep this foam wet at all times. Simply feel the foam and if it is drying out, gently pour water onto it to dampen (1/2 cup to 1 cup of water determined by size of arrangement).

There are a variety of flowers that naturally have a longer life span. Selecting these flowers in your arrangement can help to prolong the beauty of the arrangement. These flowers include Australian natives, as the harsh Australian climate and limited water supply has meant that these flowers have evolved to withstand the driest of conditions. Lilies also have an amazing ability to remain fresh and vibrant for extended periods. And last, but not least is the stunning orchid. These long lasting, exotic flowers will certainly brighten up your home whilst offering a delightful aroma.

Like most things, a little TLC goes a long way.

1300 Flowers is an Australian company that specialises in flower arrangements and flower delivery for any occasion.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stai_Nleys

Rose Bush Care

By all accounts, the rose is without a doubt one of the most beautiful and most popular flowers in the garden. Not only have roses been around for thousands of years, but they are also relatively easy to grow and they are in fact grown in virtually all countries. In fact, even if you only have minimal gardening experience, you can still grow beautiful roses providing you have at least some understanding with regards to caring for them.

Because there are such a vast number of different roses, one can safely say that there's a rose to suit every taste with regards to shape, color, and etcetera. As long as you understand what a rose bush needs, it really is an easy plant to grow. Because roses enjoying sun, they should be planted in an area that gets at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. Even those species which are considered to be suitable for growing in the shade still require at least four hours of sunlight each day. Furthermore, roses do require good soil to growing but of course you can always improve the soil in your garden simply by adding in a little bit of compost.

As with all plants, pests can of course become a problem from time to time. In fact, rose bushes often become invaded by numerous harmful insects such as rose midge larva, aphids, slugs, caterpillars, and rose cane borer. Even though no gardener wants to be faced with a pest invasion, if it happens then you need to deal with it in order to protect your plants. Once you've determined which type of pest you're and dealing with, you'll more often than not have a few options with regards to combating the problem. Of course, if you only notice a few bugs or insects then you can simply remove them by hand but you should also remove the entire leaf on which you found them just in case they've laid eggs. Alternatively, you may wish to opt for a synthetic or natural pesticide, bearing in mind that even natural chemicals have the potential of being harmful to humans. If you're dead against using any form of chemical then you may wish to consider making use of some natural enemies of the pests you're dealing with, such as certain wasps and also lady bugs. It's crucial to bear in mind that not all insects that you see in the garden are destructive and you may even be surprised to learn that your local garden center actually sells certain beneficial insects.

Pruning or "deadheading" is also an essential aspect of growing rose bushes simply because it helps to encourage more blooming. If you allow the bloom to start dying, the rose will then set seeds and no new flowering shoots will appear. Furthermore, pruning allows you to remove dead twigs and also to shape the bush to your liking.

Considering the beauty of roses, it's hardly surprising that so many gardeners feel that a garden is incomplete if it has no roses growing in it. Those rose bushes which are properly cared for will boom profusely from June all the way through to the arrival of frost. With just a minimal amount of care, rose bushes can lend your garden a touch of elegance and beauty in a way that no other flower can.

Tega Noel is a rose gardening expert. For more information on rose bush care, visit http://caring-for-roses.com.

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Decorating Tips: Small or Uneven Yards

When you have an "abnormal" yard, due to size or unlevel grounding... it may feel as though you don't have a lot to work with. On the contrary, touching up a smaller yard will make your entire home feel more welcoming. The worst thing you could ever do to a yard is to neglect it!

Planter Boxes

A planter box is wonderful for small back yards or for yards that are not right for gardening. You can place a planter box where you would place a garden (if the soil were in better condition) and use it as a focal point in your yard.

Placing a planter box centrally in a yard is a tasteful new addition, and you can work on your flowers or other plants earlier in the season by starting them inside.

Or, you can use a number of planter boxes (because they do not take up too much space) and place one on each side of your front or back door for an inviting look. If you are using numerous planter boxes (and not to accentuate a door or walkway) you should focus on the rule of odd numbers. Odd numbers (especially 3, 5, and 7) provide ambience when placed appropriately around the yard.

If size or uneven grounding have prevented you from taking advantage of your yard... please consider a planter box to begin with. But there are other useful items that can be used in abnormal yards.

Hammocks

Every home owner should possess at least one hammock to curl up in with a good book, for a relaxing nap, or for tanning. Hammocks are the perfect outdoor furniture as far as comfort and space. Hammock stands are a convenient opportunity for homes without the right place to tie a hammock between trees. In fact, hammock stands are better because you can place one anywhere!

Cedar Adirondack Chairs

There are many options for outdoor seating, but why limit yourself to patio furniture? Offer your family, and friends, a comfortable place to sit that is also stylish and flexible. Cedar Adirondack chairs can be placed anywhere in a yard and even used as a decorative item (with a function.) If you are working with a really small yard, and have used a planter box as a central focal point, then a cedar Adirondack chair (or two) would be the perfect accentuating touch.

Offset Umbrellas

Perfect for abnormal yards that don't offer the right amount of shade, offset umbrellas take little space and can be moved around. An offset umbrella will look wonderful by a hammock stand or a cedar Adirondack chair... and will provide the right amount of shade on one of those blistering hot days.

Putting It All Together

There is no excuse for neglecting a yard... regardless of any obstacles. Many outdoor decorative items and outdoor furniture options offset any faults in a yard by providing shade, a floral view, and stylish, comfortable seating that can be placed anywhere. Your yard deserves the best!

by David Bernier

About the Author

Know more about Offset Umbrellas and Storage Trunks, please visit us at: http://www.buyerschoiceusa.net/

Vegetables and Flowers Can Be Friends

I had a friend who grew up on a farm and even now, years later, she refuses to plant anything unless it has some sort of usefulness. To earn a place in her garden, plants require more than pretty petals; they have to deter pests or provide a source of food. Today, more and more people are planting similar useful gardens by combining edible plants with flowers in an effort to introduce more home grown foods in their diet.

This mix of food and flowers is also very practical for those with small yards or even balconies. Years ago, people lived off the food from their gardens, much like my friend with the farmer roots. Commercial food production took over and people transformed their gardens by planting lawns and blooming ornamental plants. Now, however, we're seeing a merging of the two as home owners are going back to their grass roots. Often, fruit trees are chosen over ornamental varieties. Fences and trellises are now being adorned by grapes, and vegetables are being planted in amongst summer annuals. Even landscapers are noticing the difference, with requests for edible landscape designs becoming more common.

Here are some tips to get you thinking like an edible plant gardener:

Add color by planting red cabbage, yellow peppers, purple eggplants or rainbow chard. Combining these nourishing plants with flowers attracts more useful insects and increases flower production and vegetable yields. Certain plants such as garlic when planted next to roses, provides a natural insecticide by repelling aphids.

Instead of ornamental shrubs, try blueberries for their tasty fruit, fall color and low maintenance. Others include Saskatoon/Juneberry, Gooseberry, or Blue Elderberry. Hazelnuts when trimmed, make wonderful hedges, and strawberries make a tasty ground cover.

For filling in those large areas, try horseradish, or Jerusalem artichoke with its showy yellow flowers.

Shade tolerant veggies include beets, brussel sprouts, cabbage, garlic, leaf lettuce, spinach, turnips and radishes. Once you taste the flavor in your homegrown delicacies, you'll be increasing your crop every year.

Edible flowers are both decorative and tasty when added to salads and soups. Some of my favorites include:

Nasturtiums - Adds a peppery flavor to salsa and gazpacho.

Anise Hyssop - Sweet anise or black licorice flavor.

Basil - Flowers have a similar, milder taste than the leaves.

Bee Balm - Use leaves and flowers to make tea with an Earl Grey flavor.

Borage - Large shrub with purple star-shaped flowers that taste like cucumber are wonderful in soups and salads.

Calendula - The bright orange flowers taste similar to saffron with a peppery taste that adds a golden color to foods.

Carnation - Has a peppery, spicy flavor.

Chamomile - Tastes similar to apple and makes a relaxing tea that's easy on the stomach.

Chicory - The beautiful bright blue flowers tolerate the worst of growing conditions. The roots can be used to make a coffee substitute, the buds can be pickled similar to a caper, and the young leaves make a nice addition to a salad.

Chives - Flowers have a mild onion flavor and the chopped stems are a nice addition to soups, salads or just about any recipe you would add onions.

Pansy - Flowers have a mild sweet to tart flavor.

Violet - Sweet nectar-like flavor.
About the Author

WelcomeHomeNevada.com provides a professional guide to Las Vegas Nevada Real Estate. For excellent agent services in the Las Vegas area, contact Mark Hostetler, your Las Vegas Realtor.